Bacalao, Bacalhau, Bacala

 

 

Fellow FanStorians…

For my final food post of 2023, I am going to entice your taste buds with a very simple fish dish I grew up with - Bacalao Ensalada. I’ve continued making this salad my entire adult life, with a modification here or there. My mother prepared this for Christmas Eve as part of La Festa dei Sette Pesci or the Feast of Seven Fishes. 

Though I mentioned final post, I’ll be back in 2024 with much to prepare and cook on the carte du jour.

BACALAO :

Bacalao Salado is the Spanish name for salted, dried codfish. Salted dried codfish is used in many cuisines ranging from the Caribbean up through northern Europe. The salt, coupled with the drying process, helps to preserve the fish and extend its shelf life. Some say for years, but personally I’m not sure.

There are numerous spellings and pronunciations of this salted, dried fish depending on which part of the globe you reside.

For example;

Bacala - Italy

Bacalhau - Brazil, Portugese

Bacalao- Puerto Rico

Bacala Salado - Spain 

Bakalarou - Greece

Baccala - Australia (best I could identify    for my friends down under), England  

I’ve seen most of these spellings here in the United States over the years. Therefore, as I’m of Italian heritage, I will defer to spelling it as bacala for this post.

Bacala is typically found in the local supermarkets Seafood Department, un-refrigerated in a wooden, covered box. 

I recall only five or so years ago buying bacala for $9.99 per pound. Of course, now post Covid, this year I’ve seen it selling for $17.99 per pound. What hasn’t gone up recently?

BUYING BACALA :

I buy bacala for the Christmas holiday on or around 12/18.  I’ll purchase approximately two and one-half pounds, hopefully in one piece and the thickest piece available.

The overall flavor of the bacala is mild, not too fishy and has a sweet flavor once the sodium has been removed. 

As you’re buying the bacala, pick up the following INGREDIENTS needed for the salad:

• Mezzetta yellow mild pepper rings,
• Cento 32z sweet peppers, I will select a jar that has more red then green peppers inside, personal preference
• Cento peperoncini- approx 6 pieces
• Cento 2z flat fillet anchovies
• Pearls Large Whole Pitted Ripe Black Olives - 6oz
• Extra Virgin Olive Oil (EVOO), 1/4 cup
• Salt, pepper, garlic powder

Note : the brand names in italics are my personal preference. Use whatever brand you’re accustomed to.

WHEN YOU GET HOME :

Bacala needs to be soaked; In a large pot, using cold water, submerge your bacala making sure the entire piece is under water (hmph, isn’t that what submerge means, underwater, duh). The purpose of soaking the bacala is twofold-

1. to rehydrate the fish, and 
2. remove the salt. 

Over the next two days change the water twice a day, keeping the bacala submerged and refrigerated. 

Note - it's ok to taste uncooked cod to decide if it's sufficiently de-salted.

COOKING THE BACALA :

The first step is to put on your favorite radio station or CD’s in the player and sound up the room with festive Christmas tunes.

The second step is to pour yourself a nice glass of Chablis or Italian Soave as these two wines pair well with bacala. Me, I’ll pour whatever the Mrs. has around, smile and be a happy camper.

The third step is we are now ready to begin. Using the same pot from soaking the bacala (because it’s already been determined it’s large enough) dump the old water. One last time, submerge (there’s that word again) the bacala and place the pot over high heat bringing the water to a boil. Once boiling, reduce to medium heat for a nice mild boil and cook for 15 minutes.

During this fifteen minute window you can do one of two things:

1. Sit down, relax, sip your wine and listen to the music, or
2. Open the various jars of peppers, pour out the brine and cut the peppers into bite-size pieces or smaller. Finely dice those six peroncini and the can of anchovies. Slice the whole black olives into rings. 
3. Toss into a large mixing bowl. Mix together with the EVOO and a dash of salt, pepper and garlic powder. 

I know, you’re going to ask… “Why don’t you buy the black olives already sliced and save time?”

My response is… “Divertiti, mi amici, nessuna scorciatoia, e Natale.”  Translation - Have fun my friends, no short cuts, it’s Christmas.”

At the fifteen minute cooking mark and on your second pour of wine, using a fork, see if the bacala has softened and flakes apart. If it does, remove it from the hot water, set it to rest and let it cool. If not yet flaky add additional minutes accordingly. Remember, If you’ve never cooked it before, keep a close eye on it.

LETS PREPARE THE SALAD :

In Naples, legend dictates that there are 365 ways to prepare bacala. While in Portugal, it’s said there are over 1000 recipes for salt cod and it can be considered the iconic ingredient of Portuguese cuisine. Are either of these true? Must be, Google said so and we know the internet doesn’t lie.

As the bacala is cooling, peel or scrape away the silver skin and any gelatinous residue on the fish. Then either with a fork or by hand, break the fish apart into “flaky chunks” of all sizes, but of course no bigger than bit-size.

Toss the bacala into the previously prepared bowl of peppers, olives and anchovies. Mix well by hand. NO SPOONS ALLOWED. Mi capisce?

With a squirt of fresh lemon, you are now ready to serve and eat bacala salad.
 

Please serve at room temperature, with an enjoyable glass of wine and a loaf of crispy, heated Italian bread and get ready to indulge.

Over the years, I've added different ingredients to the salads, some had positive feedback and some not so highly touted. For example:

capers, fennel, oil cured olives, hot cherry peppers, fresh eggplant, eggplant vinegar strips, cherry tomato and sun-dried tomato to name a few. 

Be sure to keep refrigerated when not being served.